Guide and tips

Arrange an appointment during daylight hours to be able to recognize all the details well. Bring a flashlight to inspect the underbody.

Clarify all details that are not precisely described in the ad and that are important to you (e.g. accident vehicle, rust, etc.).

Plan generously enough to have time for viewing and test drive, and also inform the seller. Avoid too many viewing appointments in one day.

Inform the seller that you want to see all relevant documents: vehicle registration, inspection protocol of the last general inspection, service booklet, and, if applicable, receipts for repairs and maintenance work.

Tell the seller that the car should not be pre-warmed. Only with a cold start can you assess the engine in a cold condition.

Especially for high-priced vehicles, an expert opinion or condition report may be advisable. In this case, you need the seller's consent.

Four eyes see more than two! Ask a technically skilled friend in advance if they can assist you.

Check the map beforehand to find a suitable test route that also allows for faster driving.

Print out the ad so that there are no misunderstandings about the details.

The exhaust must be securely mounted and not be too loud when the engine is running. Test: Press a rag against the exhaust while the engine is running. If the exhaust gases escape from another location, the exhaust is leaking.

The reflectors of the headlights and blinkers must not be rusted or tarnished. Headlights that are fogged on the inside are also not allowed.

If the brake discs are visible, check them for grooves or rust. If the wheels get hot during the test drive, it could be due to stiff brake mechanics.

The rubber seals on windows and doors must not be porous or cracked.

Wider rims must be recorded in the vehicle registration and certificate. Damage can indicate consequential damage to the wheel suspension or steering. You should include expensive rims in the contract.

Examine the car for rust spots. Signs of painted-over problem areas can include color differences (pay attention to good lighting) or paint residue on window rubbers or trim.

Look for cracks in the rubber or worn tread. If the tread depth is too low, you'll need to buy new tires soon.

Unevenly worn tires indicate that they are improperly balanced or the alignment is off.

Uneven, too tight or too large gaps between doors/hoods and the body indicate an accident. All doors should close well.

Watch out for rust spots. A new underbody coating could conceal numerous rust spots.

A crack in the windshield is not allowed. A scratched windshield may be less of a problem during the day (when you inspect the car), but at night it will cause annoying scattered light.

If the vehicle includes expensive extras (tires/rims, navigation system, high-quality audio system, etc.), be sure to include them in the contract. This is especially important if the transfer does not take place immediately but at a later date.

Check whether the operating manual, spare tire, jack, lug wrench, and first aid kit are present.

Check the functionality of all lighting equipment, windshield wipers, heating/air conditioning, horn, radio, etc.

If it is damp under the floor mats/carpets or in the trunk, this could indicate a hole in the body of the car.

They must not show signs of chafing or cutting and must not be frayed. The belt retractor should roll up without any problems.

The seats must not be loose or wobbly and should be easy to adjust. A sagging driver's seat indicates a heavily used car (remove seat covers). Also, test the front passenger seat and rear seat, as you will not always be using the car alone.

Electronic tachometers can be tampered with. If you have doubts about the stated mileage and/or if a high purchase price is involved, you should have the car checked in a professional workshop. Worn pedal rubbers can be an indication of high mileage.

The terminals should not be rusted.

If the coolant bubbles when the engine is running, the cylinder head gasket is defective. The coolant should not be oily or rusty.

Make sure that neither oil nor brake fluid is leaking from the brake system, shock absorbers, oil pan, and transmission. (However, a slightly oily engine is not yet a sign of engine damage in older cars.) No fluid should escape from hoses or hose connections. Check these points again after the test drive. (Caution, risk of burns.)

Open the engine oil filler cap – if there is white sludge under the cap, this indicates a defective cylinder head gasket.

A pristine engine bay indicates a recent engine wash – leaks are no longer visible.

Check the oil level and ask when the last oil change was. Verify if the mileage on the oil change tag matches the odometer reading.

Be sure to ask if and when the timing belt was last replaced, as a belt failure during driving can result in engine damage.